Panerai proudly returns to the world’s most important design fair as the Official Timekeeper of Salone del Mobile, thus reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to the world of design and innovation. As a tribute to this prestigious occasion, the Maison presents the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 making its debut at Panerai’s pop-up at Milano Rho Fiera as well as enriching the series of events galvanizing the Casa Panerai boutique in Via Montenapoleone during the Milan Design Week. The hallmark features of Luminor, defined by Panerai’s storied history and its essence of functional design, find a natural parallel with the forward-thinking spirit and distinctive design showcased at the central fair of Salone del Mobile.
“Our partnership with Salone del Mobile demonstrates that we have our finger on the pulse of the world of design and innovation, and we are proud to continue this journey as the official timekeeper of such a prestigious event for the third year in a row. The new Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica captures the perfect synergy between Panerai’s hallmark
functionality and the forward-thinking spirit of Milan Design Week. With its striking black ceramic case, functional movement, and bold aesthetic, this timepiece represents our commitment to making watches that are technically robust and deeply connected to the creative world around us,” says Alessandro Ficarelli, CMO of Panerai.
Boasting a 44mm black ceramic case, this new timepiece anchors Panerai’s ongoing exploration of high-performance materials. Celebrated for its strong resistance to high temperatures, scratches, and corrosion combined with a lightweight nature that ensures a remarkable wearability, ceramic has become a cornerstone of Panerai’s high-tech material portfolio, introduced for the first time in 2007 with the Radiomir Black Seal Ceramica PAM00292. But it is in the creation of Panerai cases that the Maison truly demonstrates its expertise, transforming ceramic into intricate and highly functional tool watches and resulting in a timepiece that captures the Maison’s sporting yet sophisticated essence.
The process begins with a zirconium oxide-based ceramic powder (ZrO2), a high-tech material known for its strength and stability. Depending on the color, several grades can be used. The zirconium oxide powder is mixed with a binder and then processed (molding or injection), creating an initial rough shape of the watch part. After this first processing step, the material is called “green-part”, not fully dense and suitable for rough machining.
The semi-formed case is subjected to a sintering process in high-temperature ovens. This process densifies the ceramic, transforming the initial ceramic compound into a dense and robust material capable of withstanding wear and tear. The ceramic part undergoes a shrinkage of approximately 20% during sintering, requiring precise calculations to ensure the final dimensions are accurate.
Once hardened, the ceramic is shaped and refined using diamond-tools wheels and tooling. This step involves smoothing surfaces, defining intricate details, and achieving the distinctive curves of the Luminor case. The complexity of Panerai’s case design, with its multiple rounded surfaces and components like the crown guard and bridge, demands an unparalleled level of technicity and engineering expertise. Extensive research and development have been conducted to reinforce the case’s most exposed and delicate parts, including the lugs. These refinements ensure that the lugs, which experience the most stress during everyday wear, meet Panerai stringent standards for shock resistance.
On this new release, the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 features a 44mm black ceramic case with a mix of polished and sandblasted finishes, complemented by a smoked sapphire crystal case back and a titanium base. Water resistant up to 30 BAR (~300 meters), this watch has been rigorously tested, subjecting it to a pressure 25% greater than the guaranteed water resistance value to ensure it meets Panerai’s stringent standards.
The new timepiece is powered by the P.9012 caliber, an automatic movement offering a comprehensive suite of functions. The GMT complication ensures easy tracking of a second-time zone, making this timepiece an ideal companion for global travellers. With a power reserve of three days, the watch’s energy is stored in two spring barrels, wound by an oscillating weight that operates in both directions. For precise time setting, the balance wheel stops when the crown is pulled out and at the same time the small seconds hand resets to 0 thanks to the reset seconds function. The quick time-setting function allows the hour hand and date to be adjusted forward and backward effortlessly, making it practical for everyday use. With 231 components and 31 jewels, the caliber measures 13¾ lignes in diameter and a mere 6mm in thickness, visible through the smoked sapphire crystal case back. The balance, secured by a bridge with twin supports, oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring precise and reliable timekeeping.
The sandwich-style dial of PAM01574 stays true to Panerai’s functional design: features like the crown-protecting device with lever, sandwich dial and luminosity, originally designed for professional purposes, have now become integral to the Luminor design. Boasting a blue sun-brushed sandwich dial, the timepiece features a power reserve indicator at the 5 o’clock position – with ‘ORE’ (Italian for “hours”) elegantly inscribed on the dial as a nod to Panerai’s Italian flair – providing a clear and practical way to monitor the remaining energy, a vital feature for everyday wear. The dedicated 12-hour GMT hand, bevelled date window at 3 o’clock as well as minuterie track along the edge of the dial allow for further utility and precise reading of the minutes. Luminous markers, hours and minutes hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova® X2 glowing green, while power reserve indicator and GMT hand are coated with blue Super LumiNova® X1.
PAM01574 comes with an elegant blue alligator strap and an additional, more casual blue rubber strap. Both first and second strap, as well as the buckle, are equipped with the PAM Click Release SystemTM requiring no tool for easy switch between each strap option to ensure versatility for every style preference.